Hit the saque! ...beginning HSF #17: Robes and Robings

...ok, bad pun.  Remember when I said that the 1865 evening gown was going to be the most ambitious thing I did?  Well, as it turns out, this robe will probably take the cake for that - mostly due to the shape of the skirt.  It's gone well so far, only a couple snafus (granted they were big ones, but thankfully easily fixed), so the robe part is done (stomacher will be finished Tuesday, and hopefully lower sleeves, too).  Granted - it won't be trimmed, and it won't have a proper self-fabric petticoat (yet), but the basic dress will be there.

Here's the dress as it was this weekend: no sleeve flounces or engageants, no trim, a pinned-in piece of fabric temporarily used as the stomacher (actually the square 'sample' piece that the stores have for ordering in bulk, it was on sale for a dollar so I grabbed it one day), and the bodice waist pinned to the correct height...

I rather like it so far, especially the back, though the front needs finishing at the time of these photos.

... Without further ado, here's how it got to the above photos.

Inspiration (and historical reference/"proof" for the existence of printed/indienne cotton saques) came from this Pinterest page of cotton saques put together by Katherine of Koshka-the-Cat (thank you!!).  And MAJOR props also to Katherine for her tutorials on making a saque (this project really fits nicely under the "Gratitude" HSF, too, I realized); I used those as my "making-of" guide, though I did a few things differently (so far it's come out ok though).  The silhouette I'm going for is not a "court" silhouette, but narrower, more everyday one like that of the "block print francaise (c.1770)".  Wide isn't the most flattering for me, anyway, and right now I'm making do with a rather extended hip roll padding (with quilted petticoat on top) in place of panniers, so I doubt I'd've been able to get that trapezoid shape perfectly right (I know, I know, shame on me.  Pocket hoops are on my to-do-list).

And the construction...

I'm late, I'm late for a very important date! (well, HSF date at least!)

I actually finished the HSF #15, White, in time to submit it (almost a month ago), and even took pictures - but it's not a spectacular project nor a perfectly accurate one so didn't really feel it was worthy of an HSF entry... plus, what with work, class, and church stuff I've had a hard time finding time to do a blog post.  Much as I love to write in general, that's somewhat ironic but true.  I have done a lot of sewing, though... stay tuned over the next few days (I'll finish uploading pictures for the posts and get them up).

In the mean time, here's a very short post (for me at least!) with a few pictures of the fichu.

The original (unhemmed) version (kinda puffy and slipped a lot so it hung on my neck rather ungracefully) / the new version (pardon the modern skirt-posing-as-a-petticoat and complete lack of the proper silhouette):

Front / back / side views:

And, for consistency's sake, HSF info:

The Challenge: HSF #15 - White... a basic (probably oversimplified) late 18th century fichu

Fabric: white/translucent crushed organza (poly something, probably), 1/2 yard (ended up being too narrow, but it'll do in a pinch)

Pattern: My own, based on how fichus look in various paintings from the 1770s- 1790s

Year: 1770s-1790s

Notions: white thread (hemming), 6 inches of thin red ribbon (totally anachronistic; will replace later) for a tie

How historically accurate is it?: Overall look is accurate, either tied or tucked in. Material is not. Pattern could be significantly better. It's more costume-y, I think, then accurate (I probably wouldn't wear it to a reenactment, but for pictures it has the right 'look'). But I like it anyway. :-)

Hours to complete: Two at most. I had done a quick cut-out for the Independence Day shoot, but then reworked it a bit and took the time to hem it after that.

First worn: Independence Day shoot in a previous post (I'll post one of the actual fichu-shots here, they weren't very flattering so the only shot of it in the other post is where it's wadded up in my hand); then for pictures once it was fully completed Total cost: Essentially free, since it came from my stash. Originally, it was part of 3-4 yards of that organza which I'd bought on super-discount clearance for another project (and then haven't used)


And a couple photos for the 'making of'... not much, really, it was pretty straightforward.

Originally, it was a rectangle of fabric with a point in the center back (same shape as below left with more of a back), and a slit down the middle.  That left some rather obnoxious front edges to deal with, and was way too much fabric when worn (got into my face very easily), so I cut out the neck a bit, and then hemmed it by folding it over itself twice so the raw edges were held inside.  As I said, simple, and not the best - I really should have made it a diamond instead of a trapezoid (realized that *after* I cut it out) - but it does the trick in a pinch.  I'll have to make a better one soon.

A little bit of organization... or, because I like lists (whether I always follow them or not is a different story)

The Dreamstress' "halfway-point" post prompted me to do a bit of reflection myself (and planning, mostly planning)...   No photos this time, sorry :-)

Summer is halfway over, and I've done more sewing these six months than I think I've ever done in even a year - primarily due to HSF - and at a much higher level (since it's not just measurements and draping and creative designing, but getting the pieces/shapes/trim/fabric/drape/etc. right for historical garments).
Even with how crazy life has been (somehow work and school doesn't slow down, but that's the fun and interesting part of it: balancing it all, and deepening my faith as a result), it's been nice to be able to exercise my creative side... and to do something that increases the art in this world, when so often art and an appreciation for the past (learning about it, not just using it as a setting for a modern-plotline/interpretation mode of entertainment) is being cut out of it.
On a closer-to-home note, doing something like this - sewing or just designing projects, even working furiously to complete an HSF challenge in time (or close to it) - is almost therapeutic, even with those deadlines.

So, because I like seeing what I can achieve... here's a few more self-imposed(ish) deadlines for me - or, perhaps, here's my "wouldn't it be nice" list between now and September.

• HSF 14: Eastern influence (due tomorrow) - remaking of a wood-and-paper Japanese parasol into a early 20th century / late 19th century cloth Japanese parasol.  The reason the parasol was so cheap ($4) was because the paper got torn all the way from the edge to the center along one rib, rendering it useless.  But the frame is sound (for now - I'll probably re-string it with stronger twine later), and it would be a fun project.  And, well, if I can't finish it for this one (aka, get it done by the end of the week), it might apply to the upcoming "Wood, Metal, Bone" challenge.
• HSF 15: White (due July 29) - recutting and then hemming the 18th century plain fichu that I quickly cut out for the Independence Day photoshoot.  Shouldn't take more than a few hours - though the hemming will be... fun.  Tiny stitches, yay, lol.
• Finishing the 1865 evening gown (this, I fear, will be my major-project-of-the-year-that-takes-forever-to-complete)... I have all of the fabric, all of the trimmings (unless I get very ambitious and decide to add beadwork) - I just need to make the time (perhaps this will be my in-between-courses-two-week-break project in August?).
• HSF 17: Robes & Robings (due August 26) - ok, this will probably be the second-most crazy project of the year (the first being the 1865 gown).  After going back and forth a lot about it, I decided that in fact I will try my hand at a saque using that blue-on-white floral indienne fabric, after all.  I have the fabric, I don't need another anglaise, and even if print cotton saques were rare, I have found two examples in museums - so they did exist.  Hopefully I'm not biting off more than I can chew with this one... hopefully. :-)
• HSF 18: Re-make, Re-use, Re-fashion (due September 9) - knowing where in the year this one falls, and that I might be either not quite finished with (or else worn out from) the previous adventures, I might skip this... Else, I'll remake an Elizabethan-esque shirt into a doublet/jacket; or find something else historical that I'm not so happy with and make a few needed changes/updates.
• HSF 19: Wood, Metal, Bone (due September 23) - so, either I'll finish the parasol for this one (if life intervenes yet again), or I'll make those metal shoe buckles for the Kensingtons that I hinted about in my Independence Day post.  Either way, at this point I'm probably (read: definitely) going to need a break from making clothing.  

Yes, I'm crazy (and too challenge-happy for my own good sometimes).  Moving on.

After that set, I'm guessing with the course I'm planning to take this fall, that I'll probably just stick with finishing some of my LOTR costumes (aka, sewing trim, hemming, re-doing the fit) for my "sewing therapy", instead of embarking on new projects for the fall-winter.  Of course, I say that now - and then in a month probably find out the new HSF themes and that expectation goes out the window.  

Some of those unfinished (or even not started) projects - just to get them on the list whether they get worked on or not...

• finish my golden Arwen/LOTR dress (essentially just needs hemming/trim)
• hem and redo the top for an evening dress I got on sale six months ago for a gala I didn't end up going to... but the dress should still be redone anyway (else it's useless if I can't wear it)
• 1880s/90s bustle dress (got the fabric last year, just have to make it - and a bustle to wear with it)
• Padmé's Tattooine light blue outfit (fabric from stash) and (perhaps, if I can find the right chiffon next year) a blue version of her Lake Dress
• and, since the Hobbit Part 2 is coming out in December, in homage to that, make a "Mirkwood elf" gown in similar style to the Hobbit Elven dress... again, this is all designed and the fabric is bits and pieces (a remnant here, some clearance yardage there) from my stash... just need to actually make it.  And this will probably be the last of my LOTR outfits, unless I'm inspired to make a Galadriel-esque white dress for some reason (haven't been particularly inspired by the ones I've seen so far in the LOTR or Hobbit movies).

For something to check off the list... I did manage to finish my version of Eowyn's golden/ROTK coronation dress (it badly needed some refitting, some hemming, and trim), so will (eventually) get some pictures of it to put up.  

I'd say I have my work cut out for me.  No pressure or anything... :-)  

Independence Day! The culmination of several projects

This post initially was going to be about HSF #13 - Lace and Lacing, but at the last minute I decided not to use lace to create sleeve engageantes or a fichu and instead use crushed voile, so my project no longer applied to that challenge.  Oh well.

The good news is that I was able to finish (mostly - for wearing once at least) the fichu (still needs hemming - that'll be my "White" challenge entry) and the engageantes - and trim a hat - in time for the Fourth of July.  Definitely was productive over my vacation: I even cut and pinned the rest of the 1865 evening bodice (more on that in a separate post).

I had also purchased a pair of American Duchess' historically clocked stockings (white with black) to go with the Kensingtons I'd gotten last year.  So, with the addition of the finished sleeves, a hat, and a fichu, my 1775 ensemble was pretty much complete (minus shoe buckles; I'll make those later - I have some ideas for making them using a wider florist's wire (so the wire itself is easy to work with yet holds its shape) and "forging" the twisted-together pieces together using flat pliers... not a good description, but you'll see later).

Without further ado... the full ensemble (hairstyle is NOT accurate to 1775; it was hot and I didn't want to fuss with it and then have it collapse in the humidity as it tends to do for anything fancy):

And, of course, no costume ensemble is complete without a cat's seal of approval (aka, cat fuzz over everything)... or showing off the shoes and stockings :-)  I'll have to take the stockings in a little, because I have small feet, but otherwise they are a dream to wear - even on a 90-degree day.

Here's the "making-of" part about the engageants, fichu, hat, and "padding" (not used/worn in the pictures)...

Making progress on HSF #12, the "princess" dress...

This is going a lot slower than I had hoped; I'd wanted to have the bodice fully sewn, boned, and lined by now so that I could pin on the trim.  Ah well, will have to make to with a few teasers... :-)

Here's the sizing version of the bodice (the lining) (front, back) - the two piece version (technically three, since the front is one, the back is two because I measured it and then cut it in half) with sleeve strips.  I placed pins how I'm going to do the boning/seams for front and back on the actual outside of the bodice.

And here's the sizing version worn and (partially) pinned closed in the back, with the skirt and appropriate hoops, stays, and chemise.  Will also need to make a bit of padding around the hips to make the skirt lie properly, but that can wait.

I have the front of the bodice pinned together with bones, but am not going to post pictures of it until the whole thing is done.  It looks more than a little weird right now, doesn't lie flat (due to the rigilene, grr), and since it's only the front I can't wear it, so it's hard to visualize what the full bodice will look like.  It's a bit longer than the lining, with a definite 'V' to the front of the bodice (like the peach silk gown), so we'll see how that bit of creativity goes... Here's hoping I can finish it this weekend.

For now, here's the HSF info, for the progress so far (will update it when I'm done, in the final post):


The Challenge: HSF #12: Pretty, Pretty Princess (a gown for Princess Victoria Adelaide in 1865)

Fabric: midnight blue poly-something satin (light weight) - 5 yards total, is my estimate, once the bodice is complete; will also have a black voile (polyester, sorry) overskirt held up in drapes, with a black voile berthe and black undersleeves (have 5 yards of the fabric, doubt I'll need half that since the voile overskirt will essentially be a long rectangle gathered at the top into a waistband under the bodice)

Pattern: self-designed based on the peach evening gown from the Met; bodice construction guided by the 1861-1864 bodice of the evening dress in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion (modified the bodice point and ignored the sleeves; mostly for construction ideas and what the back looked like); and the 1867 skirt of the walking gown also in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion (essentially as-is, since making one square per inch resulted in the measurements I needed)

Year: 1865; American Civil War

Notions: thread (so far); will have satin ribbon for some trim, and also a thinner satin ribbon for the lacing

How historically accurate is it?  The dress pattern and silhouette (midnight satin) is 90% accurate (slight modification of the bodice front so far, and the front panel was a single width instead of two with a center seam).  The fabric, being synthetic, is entirely inaccurate, but the satin weave is accurate to a degree.  The coloring is also accurate for someone of my age; and there were overskirts of black voile for a lighter gown, if not a darker one.  It's entirely hand-sewn.  The boning is rigilene (also inaccurate), and (to my knowledge) construction of the skirt is 100% accurate, while the bodice is maybe 60% accurate since I'm not lining each piece separately.

Hours to complete: so far about 10

First worn: only for the above photos and fittings

Total cost: at present, I'm using stuff only from my stash, except for the voile which I didn't have enough of, so bought a Wal-mart "sash" curtain (taking a page from the curtain-along book) in black voile for all of $15 - 6 yards, 56" wide.  When I got the fabric, it was about $5-6 for the entire 5 yards.  So far, $20 for a (fabric-ly historically inaccurate) ball gown.  Not bad.

Running a bit behind on posting HSF #11

I finished the 1860s chemise for  HSF #11 right before the deadline, but have been utterly swamped with work and class and, well, life that it's taken a while to post about it.  Sorry!

It came out really well, actually, and looks like a chemise of that period should (thank you gathering techniques), even though I only used a few rectangles and a couple triangles to make it.  It was harder to do it that way than to cut it to size/shape, but I think I might like it better.

The final chemise (front / back)... Sleeve position is not accurate for an evening gown (see picture below), but it can also be worn this way.

 

The Challenge: HSF #11: Squares, rectangles, triangles

Fabric: unbleached cotton, 2 yds

Pattern: self-designed based on photographs of extant garments and drawings from the period

Year: 1860s

Notions: thread

How historically accurate is it?  Since I couldn't find an exact match for it, but since it uses correct fabric and has the right neckline and body shape, I'd have to say 50%.

Hours to complete: about 5

First worn: only for photos

Total cost: maybe $3?  I bought the remainder of a bolt for $5, and there were 4 yards on it... plus a good portion of a spool of thread

And the final result, worn with corset (bought via etsy) and hoops (from costume "stash" / inherited in the 90s):

Here's a few close-ups of the outside (front / back) of the chemise:

...and of the gathering I did on the inside (front / back - the back is pleated):

HSF #11 - squares, triangles, rectangles... an 1860s chemise

In my previous post, I mentioned that I had found an 1860s chemise that (with a couple very minor - yet reasonable - alterations) could fit the requirements for making a project with (at most) one curved edge and whose fabric pieces are only squares, rectangles, and triangles.

Here is a real chemise that is closest to what I want to do, it's at the Met Museum: click here.

Here is an almost exact rendition (minus the small sleeves) of my chemise (no, I did not use this pattern, I used the picture of it as a visual reference): click here (it's the top one).

Another reference (1850s, but not unreasonable that a lady could have used the same style chemise for the 1860s and removed the sleeves): http://demodecouture.com/projects/eugenie/research.html

I do understand that this won't be an "exact" replication (in pattern/style) as an actual chemise that I found an image of, but given the silhouette, neckline, and construction style, it's not unreasonable.  I studied a variety of chemises from the 1850s-1870s (mostly through YWU articles on Victorian clothing/layers that I had downloaded a while ago, and also the Met Museum, as well as various bloggers' photos - such as Démodé Couture's, Katherine C-G's 1865 chemise, and one the Dreamstress had posted about).  In that study, I found a lot of commonalities in the 'body' of the chemise, and definite variety in the necklines and how they were added to the body - especially for evening gown chemises.  Since I won't be wearing it by itself, and it shouldn't be visible under the gown, it'll do.

I'm also making a short pair of drawers out of the same material.  I'll trim the legs with ruffles for weight and to extend the length.

Without further ado...