Showing posts with label 1860s evening chemise. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1860s evening chemise. Show all posts

Sunday, June 16, 2013

Running a bit behind on posting HSF #11

I finished the 1860s chemise for  HSF #11 right before the deadline, but have been utterly swamped with work and class and, well, life that it's taken a while to post about it.  Sorry!

It came out really well, actually, and looks like a chemise of that period should (thank you gathering techniques), even though I only used a few rectangles and a couple triangles to make it.  It was harder to do it that way than to cut it to size/shape, but I think I might like it better.

The final chemise (front / back)... Sleeve position is not accurate for an evening gown (see picture below), but it can also be worn this way.

 


The Challenge: HSF #11: Squares, rectangles, triangles

Fabric: unbleached cotton, 2 yds

Pattern: self-designed based on photographs of extant garments and drawings from the period

Year: 1860s

Notions: thread

How historically accurate is it?  Since I couldn't find an exact match for it, but since it uses correct fabric and has the right neckline and body shape, I'd have to say 50%.

Hours to complete: about 5

First worn: only for photos

Total cost: maybe $3?  I bought the remainder of a bolt for $5, and there were 4 yards on it... plus a good portion of a spool of thread

And the final result, worn with corset (bought via etsy) and hoops (from costume "stash" / inherited in the 90s):


Here's a few close-ups of the outside (front / back) of the chemise:


...and of the gathering I did on the inside (front / back - the back is pleated):



Thursday, May 30, 2013

HSF #11 - squares, triangles, rectangles... an 1860s chemise

In my previous post, I mentioned that I had found an 1860s chemise that (with a couple very minor - yet reasonable - alterations) could fit the requirements for making a project with (at most) one curved edge and whose fabric pieces are only squares, rectangles, and triangles.

Here is a real chemise that is closest to what I want to do, it's at the Met Museum: click here.

Here is an almost exact rendition (minus the small sleeves) of my chemise (no, I did not use this pattern, I used the picture of it as a visual reference): click here (it's the top one).

Another reference (1850s, but not unreasonable that a lady could have used the same style chemise for the 1860s and removed the sleeves): http://demodecouture.com/projects/eugenie/research.html

I do understand that this won't be an "exact" replication (in pattern/style) as an actual chemise that I found an image of, but given the silhouette, neckline, and construction style, it's not unreasonable.  I studied a variety of chemises from the 1850s-1870s (mostly through YWU articles on Victorian clothing/layers that I had downloaded a while ago, and also the Met Museum, as well as various bloggers' photos - such as Démodé Couture's, Katherine C-G's 1865 chemise, and one the Dreamstress had posted about).  In that study, I found a lot of commonalities in the 'body' of the chemise, and definite variety in the necklines and how they were added to the body - especially for evening gown chemises.  Since I won't be wearing it by itself, and it shouldn't be visible under the gown, it'll do.

I'm also making a short pair of drawers out of the same material.  I'll trim the legs with ruffles for weight and to extend the length.

Without further ado...