Friday, April 12, 2013

Cranberry 1770s anglaise - part 1 - bodice (reprise) and sleeve flounces

With the extra strip that was left over from when I cut the skirt, I decided to make sleeve flounces for the 3/4 length sleeves.  Anglaise sleeves sometimes had flounces and sometimes didn't; the Snowhill Manor dress did, so I'm basing mine on that.  And yes, I worked on the flounces before I measured/cut/attached the sleeves to the bodice.  I'm not a fan of sleeves (most costumers aren't; especially period sleeves because they're very tricksy), so I did the easy stuff first.

Sleeve flounces strip and partial pinning:


Sleeve flounce, fully pinned (and standing upright on its hem):


Sleeve flounces, sewn (pinned together):



Fixing the bodice...



I then was debating how to fix the bodice, as from the previous post it was obviously too narrow.  I re-did the stays to make them a bit smaller in the right silhouette, and added back-lacing, and that helped for part of it, but there was still a small gap (1/4", would be about an inch if I roll-hemmed the edges as I was planning) and I realized that to make everything fit smoothly, I would need to either add a 1" width panel between the side-back and the front panels on each side, or add a 1.5" strip down the front (what I did).

Sewn bodice:


Full length, front (post-revision of the stays):


Full length, back (post-revision of the stays):


Bodice, front:



Bodice, back:


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