Friday, April 12, 2013

Cranberry 1770s anglaise - part 1 - finishing the bodice and skirt

Since the fabric was so thin, I decided that I needed to line the bodice (not the sleeves, since I'd be wearing this with a chemise anyway) so it would wear better (and also give an extra layer between the boned stays and the exterior of the dress).

Bodice, lining pinned in place:


Then, once the lining was pinned, I created a sleeve mock-up out of the lining fabric.

I pinned that to the armscye of the bodice and it worked - it would need a few pleats at the top, but that's fine because that's period.  So, I used it as a model to cut out two sleeves from the cranberry, and then pinned the sleeves onto the (much-pinned) bodice so that the lining covered the edges, and roll-hemmed where the edges were exposed.

Bodice, lining and sleeves pinned, inside (the sleeves are inside out):

Detail of the lining and seam:


Detail of the interior shoulder strap and sleeve join:


Bodice, lining and sleeves pinned, outside front:


Detail of bodice closure - I used two rows of hooks/eyes: one on the inside from the under layer to the seam of the over layer (this holds the bodice closed), and then a row of hooks on the underside of the over layer which hook into the seam of the fabric strip below it so the two strips overlap completely:



Bodice, lining and sleeves pinned, outside back (pardon the wrinkles, please):


Not going to put that on with so many pins; my fingers may be needle-proof, but my arms sure aren't!



The (almost-finished) skirt (front view) - just needs ribbons sewn on:

Detail of front waistband (outside) and pleats:


Detail of front and back (folded on top) waistband (inside) and pleats:


Detail of back waistband (outside) and pleats:


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