Monday, April 29, 2013

A new challenge - Historical Sew Fortnightly (or, in which I have sewing ADD and start yet another project)

So, instead of finishing the neckline ruffle / trim on the cranberry anglaise this week, I decided to take a break and work on something else - something other than the quilted petticoat (finished) and linen chemise (also finished) that were finished last week.  

On Friday, I stumbled across a reference to a Historical Sew Fortnightly that fit quite well with my project list this year... 

(From 'The Dreamstress') :
"#9: Flora and Fauna – due May 6.  Textiles and the natural world are inextricably linked.  Until very recently, all textiles were made from flora (linen, raime, hemp) or fauna (wool, silk, fur), and dyed with flora and fauna.  Flora and fauna also influenced the decoration of textiles, from Elizabethan floral embroidery, to Regency beetle-wing dresses, to Edwardian bird-trimmed hats.  Celebrate the natural world (hopefully without killing any birds) with a flora and/or fauna inspired garment."

I saw that and thought: flora or fauna inspired garment, decoration of textiles, historical  - sounds like a good fit for the indienne-esque tablecloth that I was going to make into an anglaise en fourreau (something of a muslin).  Just moves that up the timetable a little, and means that the cranberry will be done mid-May instead.

Problem: the challenge is due May 6... which leaves me all of ten days (actually less given my schedule) to sew it.  

If I succeed, that'll be the fastest I've ever created anything more complex than a simple skirt. 

So, here goes...  Ready, set...!
GO!

The materials: a tablecloth (80" round - yes, I know, definitely not enough fabric, but that just makes it more challenging to get it right the first time) from the late '80s that matched the curtains in my parents' room. (The curtains disappeared to who knows where in the early '90s when my mom redecorated, else I'd use one of them and have more fabric; could only find the tablecloth).  White linen for the lining (left over from the linen chemise).  Total cost so far (to me): $0.  

Since the tablecloth is round, that makes a VERY interesting look for the hem (looks à la polonaise even when it isn't).  I don't have enough fabric to do both gown and petticoat, so it'll just be the gown.  

Detail... so springy!
The tablecloth, with measuring tape


The gown pattern:  Katherine C-G's fantastic tutorial on how to make an anglaise en fourreau (though I'm doing a different bodice front) - the first part starts here.  I like draping, so her style fits perfectly with how I do things, and makes good use of the dress form I created.  For the bodice lining, I'm copying the pattern of my cranberry anglaise because it fits (if it ain't broke...). 


STEP 1:
Make the lining.  This took me about an hour to cut, pin, and fit, and then another two hours to hand-sew it.



STEP 2: 
Measure and cut the gown back/skirt (all one piece).  Quite the puzzle, since there are several faded areas that can't be avoided (oh well) and given the curve of the edge, debating how much to angle the "top-of-the-skirt" cut (ended up doing a slight / 6" rise, since more than that just made the skirt hang VERY oddly when I draped the uncut fabric on the form).  




STEP 3:
Pin the gown back and the skirt sides (pleated) to the lining on the dress form.  This took about an hour and a half to get the skirt right.




STEP 4: 
Sew (I'll get to that later tonight...).  :-) 

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